Faroes - all over the place

This is going to be all over the place - but hey who cares, limitted readership means suffer baby

On arrival at the Faroes, God was with us in the form of Pastor Dalla and her husband Agnar and the State Heritage folk were there too - Þór Hjaltalín

Our tour directors, on the left Nanna Hermansson - tour guide extraordinaire and Sirrí choir foreman, cousin and all round great person!

This is the view from the hotel window. Hotel Faroya is high up above the main town. It has a grass roof and the longest corridors that I have ever walked.. Still twas a nice hotel.

It also has the bonus that you put your bevvies out the window for instant cooling

I promised grass roofed houses! I have now decided that I will paint my house black with white windows! I think it will be great - the house will look smaller but that just means that the tardis effect will be even greater!

Downtown Thorshavn at Tingsnes the area where the old parliament in Faroes was. If I were ever to live in the Faroes this would be where I would like to live

We had dinner in this area in the tiniest of tiny houses. Laura was our host ( a Faroese actress who is also a farmer in Skálavík). The food was excellent - apart from skerpu kjöt - an aquired taste... I was full for two days after that (and had the worst wind I have ever ever had) Nevertheless it was an excellent evening and the ambiance was amazing.

the next day was a trip to gjogv and the Island of Oisterey - Eastern Island. Amazing scenery, amazing roads and also a great lunch was had - apart from the pilot whale meat... call me useless - like icelandic shark - I am not good with food thats off...

This is Gjogv. an amazing little inlet where they used to pull up the fisherboats.. a great natural harbour but at the same time quite treachorous this is the dog I met at Gjogv... he has an underbite... I thought he didn´t like me - shows how much a facial expression influences first impressions.

the choir I was travelling with had a concert in the church at Götu. An amazing building with wonderful accustics.. the choir was excellent as was the Faroese choir that hosted them. We had a soup dinner in the kindergarten with the other choir and lots of singing and drinking ensued.

This is both choirs doing rehearsals together. They sounded ok but when the church filled with people the sound became amazing.

It was a great trip, great people, a wonderful country and will leave an everlasting memory.

Faroes - last day

This is going to be one of those dragged out blog posts - if it ever finishes, so I am starting at the end. On our last day we decided to walk down to the centre of Thorshavn, a little later than planned, as I had slept in. Not my fault ofcourse, never is.... had a few drinks the night before and was in bed at around 3am and woke up at 10.30 - too late for breakfast but we still had time to check out the town before our bus trip to the airport at 2pm

On the way we met this Icelander, sitting in the one flat spot in his garden in the suburbs of Thorshavn, seemed a tad sad, but looked healthy enough and he still had grass to graze on...

this is the flight in to Faroes, yes it was our last day and yes we were supposed to be flying to Iceland, not back to the Faroes, what happened was that after our bus to the airport boiled over (someone forgot to check the water in the radiator) we got on the plane and took off... then 20 minutes later we were advised that due to electrical problems (the main AC power supply had died) the pilots decided to turn back to the Faroes and check out the problem there rather than fly to Reykjavik and perhaps be stuck there for however long it would take to fix the problem... Now I never got a photo of the airstrip at Vaga - but believe me, it is very short, built during WWII by the Brits for their planes (ie not current type transport jets), it sits atop a mountain and hence the landing strip has big drops on both sides... not fun, it also requires the airplanes to do 180´s around mountain tops to get a straight bearing on the strip.. Not recommended for those not happy in small planes in tight places. We made it down and made it back to Iceland (duh.. since I am writing this from home) Nevertheless, this flight has made me think twice about further air travel... yet another reason why my next trip to aus will be many many years from now.

Chihuahas... are they dogs?

A visit to Akrir

Mum the dog and I went to Akrir today, whilst there Freyja had a bit of a "playtime" with Loki the farm dog and Zoro the chihuaha - I am so sure I spelt that wrong but can not be bothered googling the correct spelling.

As can be seen, Zoro the main man required a sweater, whilst Freyja and Loki were really not quite sure what it was. By the end of the visit Freyja had had enough of the two boys and their fighting over her. Basically both were trying to get the other one out of range of her. She meanwhile hid behind my legs and for the first time in her four years went to the car and hopped in of her own accord. Normally going home takes a lot of coaxing. But not today.

I am off to the Faroes next weekend, should be fun. I have never been and am tagging along with the local Kammerkór - (which is made up mainly of my cousins and their nearest and dearest). So perhaps if I am not too slack on my return I will post some photos of houses with grass roofs.

more photos from s´krók

Making her escape.

Each day I take Freyja for a walk. First in the morning before work, then as soon as I get home and the final walk sometime around 9 in the evening. Normally she is quite good and I can let her go at the foreshore and she has a bit of a run and then comes back to me. Now, however, she is trying her luck at making the great escape.

and this is usually the image I see as she tears off towards freedom.

Once the escape plan has worked the walk tends to last another half hour - ie I am running behind her calling and whistling - all to no avail. The only thing that still seems to work is if I head towards her arch enemies house. Then she usually comes and I can grab her while she is barking and waking all the folks that might have tried to have an early night.

Our dog chases people on a bike. We've had to take it off him. - Winston Churchill

Its been a while.... It has also been snowing quite a bit in the last couple of days.

My first snow accident

Yep, it had to happen. What with travelling 64kms to work and back every day (round trip), I always knew that it would just be a matter of time. Well, today I was in a bit of a rush - had to get to the shop to buy the nammi (sweets) to give to the kids that come to sing up at the school tomorrow (on ash wednesday in Iceland children dress up and entertain, in return they are hyped up with sweet things) and potatoes to have with the salted horse that we were having for dinner tonight.

Anyway there is one "blind" hill on the way from the school down to the main road. Now I should know after all this time that snow tends to accummulate at the top of the hill. Well, I remembered this as I was reaching the crest, when I realised that I was no longer in the tyre tracks of previous vehicles but rather heading towards the soft edge...... seconds seemed like they turned to minutes... and I was losing control of the car. Trying to remember not to brake - not to turn the wheels too hard....and feeling the car go further and further off the side of the road. The embankment is around 8 ft and at a 45% angle, I was at this stage concerned that if my velocity kept going I would just roll down what was left of the hill. Thankfully, the snow was quite thick and so slowed the car right down and I came to a stop with the car facing in the right direction but at an angle that I did not much care for.

I don´t think that I have ever jumped out of the car so quickly - ever. The car had stalled so I just turned the key off and jumped out. Took out my mobile and called the school for someone to come on a tractor to pull me out... ofcourse during the conversation the battery went flat.
A few minutes later one of the teachers from the primary school came by, asked if all was ok and I sent her on her way, next came another teacher from the Uni, asked if I wanted a lift back to the school, I was still sucking on my cigarette so declined. Shortly thereafter the priest stopped, another employee of the school and the road services truck... I was certainly being well looked after - lots of offers of lifts and warmth. Anyway, took the road services guy up on his offer - a drive in his car to the school and back whilst the tractor made its way, kept me warm and occupied. Did I mention that it was minus 2 with strong northerly winds - combine that with my shock and you will know that I was shaking quite a bit.

We met the tractor and passed it again on our return (the road services guy´s job is to check the roads to see where they need the dozer to come and clear the snow) I gave him a hint I think... Anyway, we get back to the car just before the tractor. Road service guy and the guy from work get the car back on the road and pointing towards home.

I made it to the shop just in time, bought more sweets that I have ever done (I think it was my need for sugar that was influencing me). Did I mention I was driving on empty? Ah yeh, a classic car day for me.

888 as opposed to 666 or 777

It suddenly struck me that the years ending in 8 seem to be significant in my life.
My home, as seen above the door was built in 1898, which means that it will be 110 years old this year. There is not much left of the original house, except perhaps the cellar and some of thewalls, the reason being that the house has been "extended" quite often, twice by my dad. It still has lots of "old" bits in it, one of my favourites being the original threshold which is now inside the house.
Next comes 1948, the year my eldest brother was born. Probably not too significant, but he was always a significant in the freudian way, in my life.
1968 is the year my family (apart from eldest brother), moved to Australia.
1978 I planned my trip to Iceland. I went in 79 for 10 months before going to Uni back in Aus.
1988 I planned my return to Australia after having been in Iceland for 2 years trying to get my life sorted.
1998 I moved to Sydney, probably one of the most trying times of my life.
2008 here I am in Iceland, again wondering what is next.

It's probably all a load of crock, but I figure that we should do something significant on the 10th of Feb to remember that day 40 years ago when a family of 6 left a small fishing village in the North of Iceland to start a new life in a country so far away. I often wonder what was going through my fathers mind on that day. It would have been so hard, leaving all that he knew, all his family, friends, not to mention his eldest son, in search of a better life for his children and perhaps a new start.
I know that my siblings kids are all Australian and yet retain their pride in their Icelandic heritage. How different all our lives would have been had my parents never undertaken this journey, I know that I have no regrets, but I can´t help but wonder. Then I think, what if Erik the Red hadn´t gone to Greenland, what if Marco Polo had not gone to China, or Karlsefni to Iceland.
Thinking about this makes me think perhaps we should all have stayed at home, would life have been easier if Ghengis Khan stayed at home, if the emperors of Rome hadn´t wanted to extend the empire? If the Brits, French and Germans hadn´t wanted to colonise the World that was not Europe?
But then - how boring would we be.. No sushi, chinese or indian cuisine. Pasta would not be Italian food. We in Iceland - well wouldn´t be a we..

You´re a wonder Wonder Woman

OK so I am regressing to my childhood and my childhood heroes. I have purchased the box set of the 3 seasons of Wonder Woman, my personal favourite super hero. Anyhoo, as I have been watching it I have noticed a resemblance to of all people, Katie Holmes. If only she had not married tom they might have found someone capable of starring in the film that is yet to be made but really really should be made.

To make my point I trolled the internet for photos of Lynda Carter (the ultimate wonder woman) and Ms Holmes - perhaps I have been here too long and perhaps I have too much time on my hands.

This would be Lynda Carter as her alter persona Diana Prince
This would be Kate Holmes seriously glassed up

Perhaps I am exagerating the likeness - but there is something there. Pity that she chopped off her locks and lost her breasts and half her brain and that Scientology probably has serious issues with females being intelligent, strong and not in need of a mate.

Its a sad sad day in S´Krok

Then (photo from Héraðskjalasafn Sauðárkróks)

Last night (photo from skagafjordur.com)

Mum phoned last night at 2am to check to make sure I was in bed as the restaurant Kaffi Krok was burning. Why check to see if I am safe and in bed - well this amazing house is my favourite watering hole in S´Krok had it been a Friday night I would probably have been there.

The house was built in 1887 and is of significant historical and cultural value to the town and to all the people that live here.

It was a horrible sight this morning when I took the dog for a walk. Such total devastation, I feel so sorry for Jon the proprietor, he had put so much work into building up the place into a thriving business. I wonder now too, what will happen to all the people that were employed there.

All I hope is that the insurance and conservation folk will get together and help rebuild it to how it once was as the streetscape in S´krok just won´t be the same without it.

"Don't accept your dog's admiration as conclusive evidence that you are wonderful" - Ann Landers

So its 2008, and as with most of my New Years I spent it at my uncle Bjössi´s house with cousins, their husbands/wives, children and grandchildren. The picture is of my cousins husband as I feel that he typifies New Year in Iceland, we wear our Sunday bests and look good for the bringing in of a new year in our lives, no board shorts here in Iceland. Mind you the weather may have something to do with that!

The Turkey, as always was cooked to perfection, and as usual there was more than enough food for the 20 or so that were there. Just in case they cooked a leg of lamb as well. I have so many fond memories of so many new years eves at Bjössi´s, in Aus I used to dread new years eve, it was always one of the most depressing days of the year. If I was at home at mum and dads you could be assured that we would all be fast asleep when the clock struck twelve, if I was with friends I would usually be feeling depressed due to the lack of a significant other. Those times when one was present I would usually be disappointed with their lack of romance, so for me new years was never a happy occasion - until 1999/2000 when I was in Iceland, for the first time I actually had a really really good time. Thanks to the wonderful folk that are my fathers brothers family... As usual in Iceland fireworks are the main event, having a dog means that you have to take consideration to the four footed ones and ensure that they are feeling ok on the night. This year it meant that I left the festivities early and took the little one home. On the way we made a visit at yet another cousins house where Tara lives. She is such a beautiful golden retriever, a treasure and her and freyja are good friends so I had to let them have a bit of a sniff.

After the traditional 'aramóta skaup' the fire works began. Even though the town is small, max pop around 3,000 there were more fireworks here and lasted longer than the Australia day fireworks on the Swan River. This ofcourse resulted in one very very freaked out dog.

The only thing to do was to lie on the floor under the doona and hope to hell that it would all end very soon. She was soo upset, shaking and really not understanding what was happening. Well, how can they know. We had fun though in our own kind of way. I watched the tv before the fireworks began and then tried to make her feel ok. then it all ended.

and she sort of came too.. realised the world was not going to end! So off she trotted to bed and then there I was wide awake and not knowing what to do next. So made the decision to change clothes (I really do need to clean my floors) and headed off to the bar... My cousins children had told me that they would be there and wanted me to join them... Off I went, after walking through and seeing no-one asked the door man if he had seen Steina... "yes she was here, but I think she has gone", so being resourceful I went to her sisters house and there they were wondering what had happened to me. A few shots later we headed back to the bar, this was after I received an earful from one of them about my making reference to my age and that I should just get a grip and continue to enjoy life and not consider that there is an age attached to certain behaviour.. So for the future I have decided to live life, enjoy each day as it comes and to take no shit - not to pretend to be something that one is not, not to think of what others might say, but just to take each moment for what it is, not to ever ever let the opinions of others matter.. It is only me that has to live with me, no one else and one is happy ones happiness rubs off onto others. cos basically if you are in a shit mood others will know and that is not making their life better...

On that rather strange note, I will have a wonderful life. - you deserve it! We all deserve it!

Cats are smarter than dogs. You can't get eight cats to pull a sled through snow

So it´s snowing ... must be Christmas time.

Regular as clockwork (in my mind anyway), if it´s snowing it must be Christmas! This Christmas has been quite strange, in a mostly nice way. Mum, the dog and I have spent the last five days quietly enjoying the time off from the usual activities whether they are work or in mums case - red cross volunteer duty, home visiting, choir practice, etc etc. The downside was (or perhaps too it is an upside), mum had a bad tummy so the eating has been kept to a minimum. We´ve both been "off" our food, which for us foodies is very strange, especially at this time of year. Nevertheless we did sit down to two meals..



This is the day before Christmas eve, now this would put most people off their food, having the dog sit at the dinner table - but actually she has better table manners than mum and I, she does not talk with her mouth full, does not bite her fork and never ever puts her elbows on the table. Here she and mother are enjoying some chicken breast, the wine is a fine rosemount semillion chardonay.
Here she is waiting for me to sit and join in on the festivities

Now here is mum and our feast for the night (Christmas Eve - the main event here in Iceland) We had lightly smoked rack of lamb, twas quite nice, we ate the left overs last night. As you may or may not see the usual condiments made their way to the table, green peas from ORA, yellow peas (or corn to most people), red cabbage and a salad of beetroot and apple in cream.. Oh and ofcourse malt og apelsín

the wine, this time, was from chile, I am actually branching out.

Mum not feeling too good.. no rather I think she is watching something tragic on the tv.

When I look at these photos I realise how cluttered my house looks, strange that to me in reality it seems rather minimalistic.

I think I may need help.

To Maja, Gosia, Maria and TSDuff, (my readership), I wish you all a very happy holiday time and that 2008 brings you all and more, you guys all deserve it! As do I!

I hope to be the kind of person my dog thinks I am. - author unknown

a little wind map for you.. 30m/s is around 108km/h - here in the north its a fairly gentle 9 to 15 m/s so around 30-55 km/h.

What can I say - it is windy...

Warning: A strong gale warning (more than 20 m/s) is in force for all parts. Forecast: Southeast 18 to 23 m/s but 25 to 30 by the west coast.
see www.vedur.is

Other than that it is Friday, the weekend is almost here and I am feeling extremely slack today... (what´s different). Need to get sorted this weekend and write christmas cards - so that they make it to their destination before the end of January. I don´t think that I have ever been this late with them.

Enough - to work with you woman!

When a dog runs at you, whistle for him.

Out walking the dog in the snow... for Maja

It was -7°C today, I took her for three walks and still she looks at me like I am the biggest letdown in the world..

"To err is human, to forgive, canine." - Unknown

OK. so this week I am on my own and so the dog has taken charge and is now considered a perfectly acceptable member of the dinner table... and basically she has better manners than many a folk I have met.

Today is the 1st of december - surprise surprise, not only is it the anniversary of home rule in Iceland, it is also the day before the first sunday of advent, which means that throughout Iceland trees are being lit and the jolasveinar are coming down from the hills. Before the festivities began I took the dog for a run... she was happy

then went down to town to watch the lighting of the tree.

not lit... lit

´twas cold, but nice, it's one of those things that I like about being here, the town does go out and listens to the speeches, joins in on the songs and basically enjoys the traditions and ensures that the next generation does the same. It was soooo cold.. but everyone was happy, good thing the bank was also serving hot chocolate...

Some days you're the dog; some days you're the hydrant. author unknown

OK so advent is not until next weekend... it came early here today, having done the obligatory clean I decided to use the excuse of darkness to brighten up the house.
Unfortunately I am not digital camera literate so my shots are not that great, but it provides an idea - although blurred - which is probably the correct one to have if you have had a red or two

However, in order to lighten things up I thought I should add this shot of the "chair" that is the mount of our town. Hopefully soon we will get more snow so that the folks that like skiing can take a few runs down its slopes.

There was a terrific moon tonight and tried to take some photos but again digital incompetence took over so am unable to deliver the view. Hopefully it will be suffice to say that it was BIG - almost round and orange in colour. Looked truely amazing with the fjord in the foreground... all it needed to complete the "painted" image was a few streaks of aurora.. but it wasn´t cold enough...

When a man's best friend is his dog, that dog has a problem. ~Edward Abbey

Its a dreary dreary day today, and the forecast does not seem much better. According to the weather bureau:
The weather forecast in Iceland until tomorrowSoutheast 10 to 18 m/s and rain or sleet, mainly in SA-part. Turns to southwest 10 to 18 m/s with rain- or sleetshowers in the south parts, first in the southwest part. Decreasing wind and precipitation in the north in the afternoon. Becoming northeast 10 to 18 with snow in the north by evening and tonight, but clearing in south part. Lighter wind tomorrow, occasional snowshowers in the north, but mostly fair in south part. Temperature 0 to 7 °C. but frost in most parts tomorrow. Forecast made 23.11.2007 at 10:52
Weather forecast in Iceland the next few daysOn Sunday and Monday: Easterly wind, 10 to 18 m/s with sleet or rain, but mainly dry in the northeast part. Becoming warmer. On Tuesday: Westerly or variable winds and snowshoweres in the west part, but rain in the east part at first, but clearing later. Frost inland. On Wednesday and Thursday: Easterly wind and intermittent sleet or rain. Temperature around the freezing point. Forecast made 23.11.2007 at 09:51
The reason for obsessing about the weather is that I have been deserted by my mother and nephew. Nephew is off to Australia tomorrow, if it were possible for me to transport myself ala stargate or star trek I would definitely be tempted to leave the darkness of the north for some summer sun. However, the long long long plane trip is something that I have come to dread - so when I will ever go there again is anyones guess.
Ma on the other hand has left me for the city lights of Reykjavik followed by a few days in Heidelberg with her womens group (kvenfélag). This trip will no doubt be a shopping orgy!

I took this photo of mums the other day just after we had some snow... Now that mum and Maggi have gone I will no doubt be buying pizza and hamburgers from the blue house on the left - their delivery car is on the right of the photo.
Enough rambling....
time to start the christmas letters...

Who loves me will love my dog also - St Bernard of Clairvaux

Oh the dark... the dark

Yep, its winter, although tonight there is no snow. This pic was taken a couple of nights ago, now we are going through the lows, one low pressure system after the other is going over the country resulting in very changeable weather going from -8 to +8 in 24 hours.. Which also means that cold and flu season is upon us.

I left work at 5 today, and mine was the second last car in the car park, I think that the encroaching darkness is having a serious effect on productivity....

My favourite nephew went to IKEA for me whilst he was in Rvk and purchased some christmas stuff for me - the usual, paper, gift cards and a light for my window

So now my window to the world has a little light shining on it... give me a couple more weeks and the rest of the house will be lit up like a christmas tree..

All knowledge, the totality of all questions and answers is contained in the dog, Franz Kafka

Last week i was in Finland, to attend the final meeting of a project that the uni was involved in. I went as the project person from Iceland is pregnant and not able to travel. The project involves food, outdoor recreational food to be exact. Like many such European projects it sometimes goes a little of the track, but for those involved - it comes as a bonus, not only did we eat food that you enjoy on recreational activities outdoors, we also enjoyed a myriad of foods that one can enjoy in the great indoors, indoors in some rather nice restaurants. The location of the final meeting was Kajaani in the mid north of Finland. I unfortunately did not see to much of the place, one - it was raining, two- when we did have a break - I really needed to sleep off the last meal.

The above is my little exhibition from Iceland, a bit naff, but hey I had no idea what I was doing there in the first place. The meeting was held in a vocational college and students from Finland and Scotland were there doing a "cook off". What I liked about it was that they mixed the teams, two from Scotland and two from Finland in each team, which meant that there was a good flow of ideas between the two, regarding ingredients and cooking methods and other things. I think that the students had a really good time.

Here are the Finns (in black) and the Scots looking at some of the results, as a total amateur I found it all extremely good.

I was told that the above soup had split - I didn´t notice - it was yum nevertheless - a cream of mushroom variant.

The above is reindeer - totally melt in the mouth, on garlic potatoe mash and red wine sauce - so yum.. (I need to find another adjective). Here the Scots advised the Finns not to over cook the meat and I think that they were extremely surprised as to how good it was.

this is taken during another meal - we had at least 6 three course meals over the three days - it was not a diet tour. this was a pancake wrapping berry cream and now my mouth is watering again.

This was at the hotel we stayed for the last two nights. Rather extreme - a pool in the centre - restaurants above and surrounding it. ´twas rather lush. I bowled for the first time in twenty years... which was fun.

Lunch on the last day. Salmon cooked at the side of a roaring fire inside a Lapp hut. So amazing. We also did axe throwing, reindeer lassooing (however that is spelt). there was a smoke sauna there and also ofcourse a meeting room (after all we were there to hold meetings!)

This was the little pond and jakuzzi area that was next to the Lapp hut.. very nice.
All in all it was a really nice week, and although it seems like it was a bit of a junket I think that it was actually a good venue for the exchange of ideas and information. Sometimes you wonder whether all this european money is being put to good use, and I must admit that I am not convinced that this was really justifiable, however, being a recipient I feel that justification is sometimes in the intangibles, the networks and friendships that are formed. I made some good friends that hopefully will come to Iceland, and I will visit in Finland and Scotland, I also dropped a few euros in local shops so I did my bit for the local economy - got some great boots! Which ofcourse totally made the trip worth while!