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Tuesday, July 22, 2008

In every walk with nature one receives far more than he seeks. ~John Muir


It all has to start with the dog ofcourse! She was most distressed seeing me start to pack my backpack and obviously on my way to somewhere.
The somewhere is Austurdalur, a long valley to the south in skagafjörður which is the valley along which the eastern glacial river runs.

This is the back pack complete with sneekers for the river crossings and norwegian walking sticks to help me keep my balance - I owe my life to those sticks!

Maggi his pack and all our other crap... yes I had the runs all day - not at all sure that I would make it. 25k treck on day one and 10 on day two... hmmm

Just before we reached our destination on friday night the bus got stuck in the sand... we had by this stage driven for 3 hours along roads I never want to see again. I am now officially phobic about bus trips in the Icelandic interior.

Once we reached our destination the temperature had gone down to 2° C and we being us decided to grill our meat - all the rest were already eating sandwiches and noodles... but hey we are extreme..

As I said it was cold....

Time to take off.. this is the group all looking rather ready to go

You can just barely see the bus and the hut where we stayed in the far distance... I thought by this stage I would probably die somewhere along the trail.

This is where the river that ran by the hut/camping area meets the glacial river, notice the difference in colours.

Maggi putting on the sun screen whilst a cross atlantic jet flies over. Behind the hill behind Maggi is Hofsjökull one of Icelands many glaciers and the glacier that feeds the river that we will be following.

more walking.... This part of the landscape is so arid, so typical of central Iceland.

After 7k´s of up it came to going back down into the valley... this is the view down - can you see a trail.. no neither did I... did I mention that I am scared of heights????

You may be able to make out three figures on the hill coming down, the one in the middle is me.. I had to have help to make it to the bottom, fell on my ass a couple of times, lost footing, felt dizzy, you name it I had it.. God what a wuss I was.

After the down hill there was a bit of a stream crossing which involved jumping between large rocks... I fell on my face ofcourse, but was extremely happy to have made it down the hill and over the stream, the weather as you can see was amazing!

After a bit of a hike, we had to cross a river, Fossá, it was cold and it was quite a distance, unfortunately the picture below doesn´t actually give a full indication of how bloody far it actually was (or perhaps felt), the water was really really really cold and came up over the knees.

It was really pretty though, it looks as if there is actual land in the middle and towards the other shore, believe me this is an illusion - they are just rocks sticking out of very very cold water, that also had a pretty hefty current.

keep going, oh soo pretty but only just half way there.

Another break in the sunshine, Maggi soaking up the rays. (As you can see from the reflection his aus tan is all gone)

The next river crossing, a lot shorter and alot warmer, when the guides had told us this we had not believed them but they were right - this one was a breeze. Hvítá is the name of the river, there was some grafitti on the other side from the late 1800's good to know things don´t change.

This is the forrest in Fagrahlíð, the oldest natural birch forrest in Iceland - believed to have been untouched, perhaps an indication of what Iceland was like before the vikings came with the horses, sheep, goats and need for kindling. (7pm and still at least 2 hours of hiking to go)

Where the hell is the hut, every corner, every hill one hoped the hut was about to show itself...

Made it and the sun goes down.

Next day and off we set.

Our destination is at the base of the hill/mountain far in the distance. - but hey it´s a sinch, I no longer had a sleeping bag in my pack and no more hills, no more river crossings, just a flying fox/box thing at some stage... we will worry about that later.

Oh, did I say no more river crossings, it´s just a stream with a few very slippery rocks.... Maggi came after this guy and actually nearly came a cropper, I meant to take a photo of him going over but I was so tired that I couldn´t figure out which mossie net man was which. The shirtless guys are the two Gisli´s, Gisli Runar our main guide is on the rock in the stream, the other Gisli is at the end of the line - he looked after the laggers like moi.

At last a bridge to cross a river.

Another great break, we were tired, Maggi had an allergic reaction to nature which made things not too pleasant. But we were coping quite well at this stage and I was no longer the last man in the line.

Above our last stop were these wonderful bassalt formations. Not the usual straight up and down stuff but actual rosettes created during a volcanic eruption. Can you see the face in the formation below?

finally reached Árbæjar church, this church seats 40, and has a service once a year - to get there is quite difficult but once a few years ago 400 people came to the service (the service is radioed to cars that are on the other side of the river... ) Needless to say an historic and amazing site.

Last downhill, we had to go down and the walk along the river bank, which sometimes wasn´t a bank but rather rockfall, loose rock fall, yet again I fell to the back of the line and had to be molly coddled along.

Last challenge the final river crossing, this time across the eastern glacial river, in a box, held up by two steel wires and pulled across the river by the third in the control of Gisli.... do I look scared, - I was shitting myself...

If I look like I am smiling - I am faking it... I closed my eyes after this and once I reached the other side - faked it and said -that was a piece of cake....


On the other side armed with a shot of whiskey - don´t we all look extremely pleased with ourselves??
This was an amazing trip, I am so glad that I did it..
After this we were taken by bus back to Bakkaflöt where we all settled into hot tubs with a beer and let the hot water take out some of our pain... the beer fixed the rest. Then we had dinner of roast lamb, rather yum, before heading back home at around 9.30pm.
I can still feel pain when I think of the back pack, but hey it was worth it... now the question is - what next?
The photos are from Maggi´s camera as well as mine, I have uploaded them on flickr if you want to check them all out - be warned there are lots and lots and lots

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Everywhere is walking distance if you have the time. ~Steven Wright


Went for a walk yesterday on Tindastóll, with my cousin Egill, his wife Ragnheiður, mum and the dog. The car was parked at the base of the ski lift on Tindastóll and mum walked a lot further than she has done for a long long time. She had norwegian walking sticks with her, which she said made all the difference.

This is a view from just after mum returned to the car - the farm houses you can see in the distance are Tunga - the farm where mum grew up and is now farmed by two of my uncles.
This is my cousin Egill, with if you look carefully a view of the village below. This was as high as we went, we were almost at the top - but lets face it, I was buggered, so Egill said that this would do. Nice view - better if it hadn´t been so foggy and the rain didn´t help.

Both on the way up and on the way down there were these areas of fluorescent green moss - they were surrounding the area where water was coming out of the mountain. Nothing like seeing where our "pure mountain" water comes from.

All in all it was a good day. Next weekend Maggi and I are doing the walk in Austurdal. Its two days of walking. We leave friday afternoon by bus from Varmahlíð to Grána - a hut in the mountains, (there isn´t enough room in the hut for all the walkers - so Maggi and I are camping... brrr), then Saturday is a 25 km hike to the next hut at Hildarsel, Sunday is a hike down to Árbæ and Skatastaðir where the bus picks us up and takes us to a hot pot at Bakkaflöt. at the moment we are trying to organise our backpacks, tent and food (yes we have to carry all our food with us....)
I was trying to find a map of the area on google, but there does not seem to be one on the net. Once the walk is completed I should be able to source one and will post photos and a map. this is assuming that I do make it - my short walk yesterday certainly had an effect on some muscles, but I am told that the majority of this walk will be down hill - just hoping that the weather is nice - not too cold, not too hot and definitely NOT wet!

Tuesday, July 08, 2008

There is nothing like staying at home for real comfort. ~Jane Austen


This was what my house looked like after I painted it green, I can´t find an image of what it looked like before then - will probably need to scan something in so we can see the transition - at the time I thought that this was a tremendous improvement on what it looked like before.

Now it looks like this - so much better, think what it will look like in a few years time - with new windows and perhaps better gravel out the front.
Today was finishing things off... painting the old cement wall around the grill area.
And I did the second coat on the back / southern wall... note the hole that used to be near the window on the far right is no longer there. Maggi, became master bricky today.

Sunday, July 06, 2008

You can bury a lot of troubles digging in the dirt. ~Author Unknown

Well it is finally over. Above is a view of the eastern side of the house and i decided to keep the photos of that side although the real transformation was in the back where i got rid of heaps of trees/shrubs that really just cluttered things up.

this is Hebba - Biggis wife (biggi is on the digger . he´s sort of like Bob the builder... Bob´s name in Icelandic is Biggi...... as an aside he has the nicest blue eyes I have ever seen... he also has the best wife...

So now all the old growth is gone, it was the easiest way to get rid of the weeds and moss - that had constituted my garden till then....

the beginning of the turf laying. the guy with the hands on his hips is Tom the piano player for Heimir the mens choir...

The finished product... the eastern side - before painting

Freyja in her new garden.

me painting...

My new house colours...
I love my new house and my garden.. am so pleased.