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Tuesday, July 22, 2008

In every walk with nature one receives far more than he seeks. ~John Muir


It all has to start with the dog ofcourse! She was most distressed seeing me start to pack my backpack and obviously on my way to somewhere.
The somewhere is Austurdalur, a long valley to the south in skagafjörður which is the valley along which the eastern glacial river runs.

This is the back pack complete with sneekers for the river crossings and norwegian walking sticks to help me keep my balance - I owe my life to those sticks!

Maggi his pack and all our other crap... yes I had the runs all day - not at all sure that I would make it. 25k treck on day one and 10 on day two... hmmm

Just before we reached our destination on friday night the bus got stuck in the sand... we had by this stage driven for 3 hours along roads I never want to see again. I am now officially phobic about bus trips in the Icelandic interior.

Once we reached our destination the temperature had gone down to 2° C and we being us decided to grill our meat - all the rest were already eating sandwiches and noodles... but hey we are extreme..

As I said it was cold....

Time to take off.. this is the group all looking rather ready to go

You can just barely see the bus and the hut where we stayed in the far distance... I thought by this stage I would probably die somewhere along the trail.

This is where the river that ran by the hut/camping area meets the glacial river, notice the difference in colours.

Maggi putting on the sun screen whilst a cross atlantic jet flies over. Behind the hill behind Maggi is Hofsjökull one of Icelands many glaciers and the glacier that feeds the river that we will be following.

more walking.... This part of the landscape is so arid, so typical of central Iceland.

After 7k´s of up it came to going back down into the valley... this is the view down - can you see a trail.. no neither did I... did I mention that I am scared of heights????

You may be able to make out three figures on the hill coming down, the one in the middle is me.. I had to have help to make it to the bottom, fell on my ass a couple of times, lost footing, felt dizzy, you name it I had it.. God what a wuss I was.

After the down hill there was a bit of a stream crossing which involved jumping between large rocks... I fell on my face ofcourse, but was extremely happy to have made it down the hill and over the stream, the weather as you can see was amazing!

After a bit of a hike, we had to cross a river, Fossá, it was cold and it was quite a distance, unfortunately the picture below doesn´t actually give a full indication of how bloody far it actually was (or perhaps felt), the water was really really really cold and came up over the knees.

It was really pretty though, it looks as if there is actual land in the middle and towards the other shore, believe me this is an illusion - they are just rocks sticking out of very very cold water, that also had a pretty hefty current.

keep going, oh soo pretty but only just half way there.

Another break in the sunshine, Maggi soaking up the rays. (As you can see from the reflection his aus tan is all gone)

The next river crossing, a lot shorter and alot warmer, when the guides had told us this we had not believed them but they were right - this one was a breeze. Hvítá is the name of the river, there was some grafitti on the other side from the late 1800's good to know things don´t change.

This is the forrest in Fagrahlíð, the oldest natural birch forrest in Iceland - believed to have been untouched, perhaps an indication of what Iceland was like before the vikings came with the horses, sheep, goats and need for kindling. (7pm and still at least 2 hours of hiking to go)

Where the hell is the hut, every corner, every hill one hoped the hut was about to show itself...

Made it and the sun goes down.

Next day and off we set.

Our destination is at the base of the hill/mountain far in the distance. - but hey it´s a sinch, I no longer had a sleeping bag in my pack and no more hills, no more river crossings, just a flying fox/box thing at some stage... we will worry about that later.

Oh, did I say no more river crossings, it´s just a stream with a few very slippery rocks.... Maggi came after this guy and actually nearly came a cropper, I meant to take a photo of him going over but I was so tired that I couldn´t figure out which mossie net man was which. The shirtless guys are the two Gisli´s, Gisli Runar our main guide is on the rock in the stream, the other Gisli is at the end of the line - he looked after the laggers like moi.

At last a bridge to cross a river.

Another great break, we were tired, Maggi had an allergic reaction to nature which made things not too pleasant. But we were coping quite well at this stage and I was no longer the last man in the line.

Above our last stop were these wonderful bassalt formations. Not the usual straight up and down stuff but actual rosettes created during a volcanic eruption. Can you see the face in the formation below?

finally reached Árbæjar church, this church seats 40, and has a service once a year - to get there is quite difficult but once a few years ago 400 people came to the service (the service is radioed to cars that are on the other side of the river... ) Needless to say an historic and amazing site.

Last downhill, we had to go down and the walk along the river bank, which sometimes wasn´t a bank but rather rockfall, loose rock fall, yet again I fell to the back of the line and had to be molly coddled along.

Last challenge the final river crossing, this time across the eastern glacial river, in a box, held up by two steel wires and pulled across the river by the third in the control of Gisli.... do I look scared, - I was shitting myself...

If I look like I am smiling - I am faking it... I closed my eyes after this and once I reached the other side - faked it and said -that was a piece of cake....


On the other side armed with a shot of whiskey - don´t we all look extremely pleased with ourselves??
This was an amazing trip, I am so glad that I did it..
After this we were taken by bus back to Bakkaflöt where we all settled into hot tubs with a beer and let the hot water take out some of our pain... the beer fixed the rest. Then we had dinner of roast lamb, rather yum, before heading back home at around 9.30pm.
I can still feel pain when I think of the back pack, but hey it was worth it... now the question is - what next?
The photos are from Maggi´s camera as well as mine, I have uploaded them on flickr if you want to check them all out - be warned there are lots and lots and lots

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Everywhere is walking distance if you have the time. ~Steven Wright


Went for a walk yesterday on Tindastóll, with my cousin Egill, his wife Ragnheiður, mum and the dog. The car was parked at the base of the ski lift on Tindastóll and mum walked a lot further than she has done for a long long time. She had norwegian walking sticks with her, which she said made all the difference.

This is a view from just after mum returned to the car - the farm houses you can see in the distance are Tunga - the farm where mum grew up and is now farmed by two of my uncles.
This is my cousin Egill, with if you look carefully a view of the village below. This was as high as we went, we were almost at the top - but lets face it, I was buggered, so Egill said that this would do. Nice view - better if it hadn´t been so foggy and the rain didn´t help.

Both on the way up and on the way down there were these areas of fluorescent green moss - they were surrounding the area where water was coming out of the mountain. Nothing like seeing where our "pure mountain" water comes from.

All in all it was a good day. Next weekend Maggi and I are doing the walk in Austurdal. Its two days of walking. We leave friday afternoon by bus from Varmahlíð to Grána - a hut in the mountains, (there isn´t enough room in the hut for all the walkers - so Maggi and I are camping... brrr), then Saturday is a 25 km hike to the next hut at Hildarsel, Sunday is a hike down to Árbæ and Skatastaðir where the bus picks us up and takes us to a hot pot at Bakkaflöt. at the moment we are trying to organise our backpacks, tent and food (yes we have to carry all our food with us....)
I was trying to find a map of the area on google, but there does not seem to be one on the net. Once the walk is completed I should be able to source one and will post photos and a map. this is assuming that I do make it - my short walk yesterday certainly had an effect on some muscles, but I am told that the majority of this walk will be down hill - just hoping that the weather is nice - not too cold, not too hot and definitely NOT wet!

Tuesday, July 08, 2008

There is nothing like staying at home for real comfort. ~Jane Austen


This was what my house looked like after I painted it green, I can´t find an image of what it looked like before then - will probably need to scan something in so we can see the transition - at the time I thought that this was a tremendous improvement on what it looked like before.

Now it looks like this - so much better, think what it will look like in a few years time - with new windows and perhaps better gravel out the front.
Today was finishing things off... painting the old cement wall around the grill area.
And I did the second coat on the back / southern wall... note the hole that used to be near the window on the far right is no longer there. Maggi, became master bricky today.

Sunday, July 06, 2008

You can bury a lot of troubles digging in the dirt. ~Author Unknown

Well it is finally over. Above is a view of the eastern side of the house and i decided to keep the photos of that side although the real transformation was in the back where i got rid of heaps of trees/shrubs that really just cluttered things up.

this is Hebba - Biggis wife (biggi is on the digger . he´s sort of like Bob the builder... Bob´s name in Icelandic is Biggi...... as an aside he has the nicest blue eyes I have ever seen... he also has the best wife...

So now all the old growth is gone, it was the easiest way to get rid of the weeds and moss - that had constituted my garden till then....

the beginning of the turf laying. the guy with the hands on his hips is Tom the piano player for Heimir the mens choir...

The finished product... the eastern side - before painting

Freyja in her new garden.

me painting...

My new house colours...
I love my new house and my garden.. am so pleased.

Sunday, June 29, 2008

I stole this from Maja, cos it interested me to see if I had actually read any of the books on the list and I surprised myself. There are some that I did not mark as it was a long long time ago that I think I read the book - or I may just have imagined it...


The Big Read reckons that the average adult has only read 6 of the top 100 books they've printed."
1) Look at the list and bold those you have read.
2) Italicize those you intend to read.
3) Underline the books you LOVE.
4) Reprint this list in your own blog so we can try and track down these people who've read 6 and force books upon them ;-)

Underlining is not working so I am stating which are my faves

1 Pride and Prejudice - Jane Austen LOVED IT
2 The Lord of the Rings - JRR Tolkien. BOOK ONE THE REST WERE MMM
3 Jane Eyre - Charlotte Bronte A FAVOURITE
4 Harry Potter series - JK Rowling
5 To Kill a Mockingbird - Harper Lee
6 The Bible
7 Wuthering Heights - Emily Bronte ANOTHER FAVE
8 Nineteen Eighty Four - George Orwell
9 His Dark Materials - Philip Pullman.
10 Great Expectations - Charles Dickens
11 Little Women - Louisa M Alcott LOVED IT
12 Tess of the D'Urbervilles - Thomas Hardy
13 Catch 22 - Joseph Heller WAS CONFUSED... I THINK THAT WAS THE POINT
14 Complete Works of Shakespeare (Several but not all.)
15 Rebecca - Daphne Du Maurier ANOTHER FAVOURITE
16 The Hobbit - JRR Tolkien
17 Birdsong - Sebastian Faulks
18 Catcher in the Rye - JD Salinger
19 The Time Traveller's Wife - Audrey Niffenegger I LIKED THIS BOOK
20 Middlemarch - George Eliot
21 Gone With The Wind - Margaret Mitchell
22 The Great Gatsby - F Scott Fitzgerald
23 Bleak House - Charles Dickens
24 War and Peace - Leo Tolstoy
25 The Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy - Douglas Adams EVERYTHING HE WRITES IS GREAT
26 Brideshead Revisited - Evelyn Waugh LOVED ONES WAS BETTER
27 Crime and Punishment - Fyodor Dostoyevsky
28 Grapes of Wrath - John Steinbeck
29 Alice in Wonderland - Lewis Carroll
30 The Wind in the Willows - Kenneth Grahame
31 Anna Karenina - Leo Tolstoy
32 David Copperfield - Charles Dickens
33 Chronicles of Narnia - CS Lewis
34 Emma - Jane Austen
35 Persuasion - Jane Austen SHE IS THE BESTEST
36 The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe - CS Lewis
37 The Kite Runner - Khaled Hosseini
38 Captain Corelli's Mandolin - Louis De Bernieres BORED
39 Memoirs of a Geisha - Arthur Golden
40 Winnie the Pooh - AA Milne
41 Animal Farm - George Orwell
42 The Da Vinci Code - Dan Brown YEH WHY DID I BOTHER TO READ MORE OF HIS STUFF
43 One Hundred Years of Solitude - Gabriel Garcia Marquez
44 A Prayer for Owen Meaney - John Irving
45 The Woman in White - Wilkie Collins
46 Anne of Green Gables - LM Montgomery AND THE REST...
47 Far From The Madding Crowd - Thomas Hardy
48 The Handmaid's Tale - MargaretAtwood.
49 Lord of the Flies - William Golding
50 Atonement - Ian McEwan
51 Life of Pi - Yann Martel52 Dune - Frank Herbert
53 Cold Comfort Farm - Stella Gibbons
54 Sense and Sensibility - Jane Austen AS I SAID SHE IS THE BEST
55 A Suitable Boy - Vikram Seth
56 The Shadow of the Wind - Carlos Ruiz Zafon
57 A Tale Of Two Cities - Charles Dickens
58 Brave New World - Aldous Huxley
59 The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-time - Mark Haddon
60 Love In The Time Of Cholera - Gabriel Garcia Marquez
61 Of Mice and Men - John Steinbeck
62 Lolita - Vladimir Nabokov
63 The Secret History - Donna Tartt
64 The Lovely Bones - Alice Sebold
65 Count of Monte Cristo - Alexandre Dumas
66 On The Road - Jack Kerouac
67 Jude the Obscure - Thomas Hardy
68 Bridget Jones's Diary - Helen Fielding
69 Midnight's Children - Salman Rushdie
70 Moby Dick - Herman Melville
71 Oliver Twist - Charles Dickens
72 Dracula - Bram Stoker
73 The Secret Garden - Frances Hodgson Burnett
74 Notes From A Small Island - Bill Bryson
75 Ulysses - James Joyce Started
76 The Bell Jar - Sylvia Plath7
7 Swallows and Amazons - Arthur Ransome
78 Germinal - Emile Zola
79 Vanity Fair - William Makepeace Thackeray
80 Possession - AS Byatt
81 A Christmas Carol - Charles Dickens
82 Cloud Atlas - David Mitchell
83 The Color Purple - Alice Walker
84 The Remains of the Day - Kazuo Ishiguro
85 Madame Bovary - Gustave Flaubert
86 A Fine Balance - Rohinton Mistry
87 Charlotte's Web - EB White
88 The Five People You Meet In Heaven
89 Adventures of Sherlock Holmes - Sir Arthur Conan Doyle
90 The Faraway Tree Collection - Enid Blyton WHAT ABOUT FAMOUS FIVE AND SECRET SEVEN.......
91 Heart of Darkness - Joseph Conrad
92 The Little Prince - Antoine De Saint-Exupery
93 The Wasp Factory - Iain Banks
94 Watership Down - Richard Adams
95 A Confederacy of Dunces - John Kennedy Toole
96 A Town Like Alice - Nevil Shute
97 The Three Musketeers - Alexandre Dumas
98 Hamlet - William Shakespeare
99 Charlie and the Chocolate Factory
100 Les Miserable - Victor Hugo

Strangely the ones I haven´t marked are books that I have not wanted to read... I like that...given the fact that I read crap most of the time

Friday, June 27, 2008

Just because you're miserable doesn't mean you can't enjoy your life. ~Annette Goodheart

I´ve been feeling a bit like that recently, both miserable and enjoying life at the same time. Strange, I think it has a lot to do with the weather, work and general summer time blues. Soon though I will have some time off to do some serious work around the house.

Last week was the 17th of June - our national day - hence the photo of the flag. It was also the day they shot bear number 2. She was extremely weak from her swim and her likelihood of surviving a return journey (sedated) to Greenland seem slim. At least this time an attempt was made (an extremely expensive attempt at that...and since a whole heap of experts have come out of the woodwork to say how it really should have gone down), Oh well, we wait for bear 3 and see what happens then. Apparently a couple of women thought that they had spotted number 3, but it turns out that it was probably just a very big sheep.
Freyja watching the proceedings on the oval on the 17th of June - it was a beautiful day - but there was a mighty cold northerly blowing which made being outdoors a tad brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
3am the sunlight lighting the southern end of the fjord
A view to Drangey with Arctic Turns doing their morning breakfast run.
Midsummer has now passed which means (if we want to be depressing) the days are getting shorter... Some shots from 3am are included in this post - but now that I have managed to add flickr to my sidebar (thanks maja) those that want more photos can go there and troll through the really really bad photography...